A family living in a small flat has a growing collection of spices but very limited worktop space. The kitchen wall beside the cooker has an unused area tha...

(a) Four functional points [4 marks]

1. Secure jar retention — The rack must hold jars firmly so that removing one jar does not dislodge its neighbours. In a kitchen environment beside a cooker, vibrations from closing doors or boiling pans can cause unsecured jars to walk forward and fall. A front lip or individual cradle on each shelf addresses this. [1]
2. Label visibility without removal — Spice jars are typically selected by reading the label. If jars sit in a single deep row, the rear jars are hidden. A design that angles jars or staggers shelf depths lets the user identify every jar at a glance, saving time during cooking. [1]
3. Easy to clean — Spice dust, oil vapour, and cooking grease accumulate on any surface near a cooker. Smooth, sealed surfaces with no hard-to-reach internal corners allow the rack to be wiped down with a damp cloth. Removable shelves or a lift-off mounting method make thorough cleaning practical. [1]
4. Accommodation of varying jar sizes — Spice jars range from small herb pots (approximately 40 mm diameter, 60 mm tall) to larger grinding jars (up to 70 mm diameter, 120 mm tall). Shelf heights and front lip dimensions must allow for this range without wasted space. [1]

(b) Two mounting methods [4 marks]

Method 1 — Keyhole slot mounting: Two keyhole-shaped slots are routed into the back panel of the rack. Each slot has a wide circular entry (approximately 10 mm diameter) at the top that narrows to a 5 mm channel below. Screw heads (No. 8 gauge) are driven into wall plugs so the head protrudes 3-4 mm. The rack is lifted over the screw heads, then slid downward so the narrow channel grips the screw shank. This method allows the entire rack to be lifted off the wall for cleaning or relocation, with no visible fixings from the front. [2]

Method 2 — L-bracket mounting: Two mild steel L-brackets (approximately 50 mm x 50 mm x 2 mm thick) are screwed to the underside of each shelf and into wall plugs using No. 10 countersunk screws. The vertical leg of each bracket is drilled with two fixing holes for the wall, and the horizontal leg is screwed up into the shelf from below. This provides strong permanent support that can bear the combined weight of eight or more glass jars. The brackets are positioned at the ends of each shelf where they are partially hidden by the side panels. [2]

(c) Three design ideas [12 marks]

Idea 1 — Tiered step design: Three shelves are arranged in a staircase profile, each shelf set at a greater depth than the one above it (50 mm, 75 mm, and 100 mm from top to bottom). The shallowest shelf at the top holds small herb jars, the middle shelf holds medium jars, and the deepest bottom shelf holds tall grinding jars. Because each shelf is set back from the one below, every jar label is visible from the front without removing any jar. Each shelf has a 10 mm front lip to prevent jars sliding forward. The overall width is 400 mm, accommodating 3-4 jars per shelf. Construction uses flat panels joined with housing joints, making it straightforward to produce in a school workshop. [4]

Idea 2 — Vertical ladder rack with adjustable pegs: Two vertical side rails (approximately 300 mm tall) are connected by narrow horizontal bars at regular intervals. Removable hardwood pegs (8 mm diameter) are inserted into pre-drilled holes along the bars, gripping jar lids from below so jars hang at adjustable heights. This approach uses the wall space vertically rather than horizontally, making it suitable for a narrow gap beside a cooker. The open construction allows air circulation and easy cleaning, though the pegs must be precisely spaced to grip different lid diameters. [4]

Idea 3 — Curved wave shelf with angled dividers: A single long shelf follows a gentle S-curve in plan view, with the front edge raised as a lip. Angled card or plywood dividers are glued at intervals along the shelf to create individual cradles for each jar. The wave shape adds visual interest and allows the shelf to follow the contour of a corner or curved wall. Each cradle angles the jar slightly backward, keeping it in contact with the back panel. This design is visually distinctive but requires more complex curved cuts and careful spacing of the dividers. [4]

(d) Evaluation and justification [8 marks]

Idea 1 (Tiered step) — Strengths: all labels are visible because each tier is offset; flat-panel construction uses only straight cuts and housing joints, well within school workshop capabilities; maximises the number of jars in a compact wall footprint. Weaknesses: three shelves require more material than a single-shelf design; the stepped profile means the unit protrudes 100 mm from the wall at the base.

Idea 2 (Ladder rack) — Strengths: adjustable peg positions suit any jar size; open frame is easy to clean. Weaknesses: pegs must grip jar lids accurately, which varies between brands; jars hanging by their lids may be less stable than jars sitting on a shelf.

Idea 3 (Wave shelf) — Strengths: visually appealing curved form; individual cradles secure each jar. Weaknesses: curved cuts are difficult to produce accurately; the single-shelf layout limits total capacity.

Chosen idea: Idea 1. The tiered step design best meets the brief because it keeps all labels visible (directly addressing the user's need to identify spices quickly while cooking), uses simple flat-panel construction that is realistic for a school workshop, and stores the most jars in the available wall space. The housing joints provide strong, accurate shelf positioning without complex jigs. [8]

(e) Full solution — construction details [12 marks]

The solution is drawn as an isometric projection of a three-tier stepped rack.

• Overall dimensions: 400 mm wide, 250 mm tall, maximum depth 100 mm at the bottom shelf.
• Side panels: Two pieces of 12 mm beech hardwood, each 250 mm tall and shaped in a stepped profile. The inner face of each side panel has three housing joints cut 5 mm deep and 6 mm wide to receive the shelf panels.
• Shelves: Three shelves cut from 6 mm birch plywood. Top shelf: 400 mm x 50 mm. Middle shelf: 400 mm x 75 mm. Bottom shelf: 400 mm x 100 mm. Each shelf sits in a housing joint on each side panel.
• Front lips: A 10 mm tall strip of beech hardwood is glued to the front edge of each shelf, preventing jars from sliding forward. The lip is rounded on the top edge for a smooth finish.
• Back panel: A 6 mm birch plywood panel (400 mm x 250 mm) is housed into a 5 mm deep rebate cut along the rear inner edge of each side panel. This stiffens the unit and provides the surface for keyhole mounting slots.
• Mounting: Two keyhole slots are routed into the back panel, positioned 80 mm from each side and 60 mm from the top.
• Joints: Housing joints (5 mm deep) connect shelves to sides. Rebate joint (5 mm deep) connects the back panel to the sides. PVA wood adhesive reinforces all joints.

(f) Materials [4 marks]

1. Beech hardwood (12 mm) for the side panels and front lips. Beech is a close-grained hardwood that is durable and resistant to moisture from cooking steam. It has an attractive pale colour with a subtle grain pattern that suits a kitchen environment. Beech finishes well with food-safe oil, producing a smooth, washable surface. Its hardness means housing joints hold firmly without splitting. [2]
2. Birch plywood (6 mm) for the back panel and shelf bases. Birch plywood is dimensionally stable (it will not warp in the warm, humid air near a cooker), lightweight (reducing the load on the wall fixings), and provides a flat, smooth surface. The cross-laminated construction resists splitting when keyhole slots are routed. It is available in large sheets, allowing all shelves to be cut from one piece with minimal waste. [2]

(g) Manufacturing the side panel [6 marks]

1. Mark out: Transfer the stepped profile onto a piece of 12 mm beech (at least 260 mm x 120 mm) using a full-size template, pencil, and try square. Mark the positions of three housing joints on the inner face using a marking gauge set to 5 mm depth and a try square for the shoulder lines. [1]
2. Cut outer shape: Cut the straight edges to length using a tenon saw, keeping to the waste side of the line. Clean each sawn edge with a smoothing plane, checking for squareness with a try square. [1]
3. Cut housing joints: For each of the three housings, saw the two walls using a tenon saw, cutting down to the 5 mm gauge line. Remove the waste between the saw cuts using a bevel-edged chisel, working from each side toward the centre to avoid splitting. Pare the bottom of each housing flat with the chisel held bevel-down, checking depth with a steel rule. [2]
4. Sand: Sand all surfaces progressively through 120-grit and 240-grit abrasive paper, working along the grain direction. Ease all outer edges and corners with a sanding block to prevent splinters. [1]
5. Finish: Apply two coats of food-safe Danish oil using a lint-free cloth. Allow the first coat to penetrate for 15 minutes, wipe off excess, then sand lightly with 320-grit between coats for a smooth, sealed surface that is safe for a kitchen environment. [1]