A dog owner with two pets is tired of food bowls sliding across the kitchen floor and bags of dry food cluttering the corner. They want a station that holds bowls steady and stores food.
Fig 6 shows two dog food bowls and a bag of dry food on a floor.
Design a pet feeding station that holds two bowls and includes a sealed storage compartment.
(a) List four additional points about the function of such a pet feeding station that you consider to be important. [4]
(b) Use sketches and notes to show two types of lid or closure that could seal the food storage compartment. [4]
(c) Develop and sketch three ideas for the pet feeding station. [12]
(d) Evaluate your ideas and justify why you have chosen one idea to develop more fully. [8]
(e) Draw, using a method of your own choice, a full solution to the problem. Include construction details and major dimensions. [12]
(f) Suggest suitable specific materials for your solution and give reasons for your choice. [4]
(g) Outline a method used to manufacture one part of your solution in the school workshop. [6]
[Total: 50]
(a) Four additional functional points [4 marks]
The brief already states the station must hold two bowls and include sealed storage. Additional points must go beyond this:
- Anti-slide bowl retention - the bowls must not slide or tip during feeding. Dogs push bowls across the floor while eating; circular cut-outs sized to the bowl diameter lock each bowl in place by its rim. [1]
- Airtight storage - the compartment must seal airtight to keep dry food fresh and free from pests (ants, weevils). A rubber gasket strip or silicone seal around the lid rim achieves this. [1]
- Easy cleaning - food and water inevitably spill around the bowls. All surfaces must be smooth and sealed so they can be wiped clean. A waterproof finish (polyurethane varnish) on timber, or a non-porous material like stainless steel, enables hygienic maintenance. [1]
- Comfortable feeding height - raising the bowls to an appropriate height reduces neck strain for the pets, particularly important for larger breeds. The station height should suit the dog size (typically 100-150 mm for medium dogs). [1]
(b) Two closure types for the storage compartment [4 marks]
Each closure type earns up to 2 marks (1 for sketch, 1 for annotation).
- Hinged flip-top lid - a plywood lid attached to the compartment back edge with a 150 mm piano hinge. A small magnetic catch at the front holds the lid shut. A rubber gasket strip around the rim creates an airtight seal when closed. The piano hinge distributes the load along the full width, preventing the lid from warping. [2]
- Sliding drawer lid - a panel that slides in grooves (3 mm x 3 mm) routed into the inner side walls of the compartment. The user pulls the panel forward to access food and pushes it back flush to close. The grooves prevent the lid from lifting, and a small stop block at the back prevents over-insertion. [2]
(c) Three design ideas [12 marks]
- Idea 1: Low rectangular platform - a flat platform (600 mm x 300 mm x 120 mm) with two circular cut-outs for the bowls at one end and a sealed box compartment at the other end with a hinged lid on top. The box uses finger joints at the corners for strength and visual appeal. Simple, stable, and workshop-achievable. [4]
- Idea 2: Stepped unit - the bowls sit on a lower front shelf (80 mm high) while the food storage is a tall bin (250 mm) at the back with a scoop built into the lid. The stepped arrangement separates wet feeding from dry storage. However, the taller profile could be knocked over by an excited dog. [4]
- Idea 3: Curved trough base - a trough-shaped base with moulded recesses for the bowls and a cylindrical food canister attached to one side with a twist-lock lid. Visually distinctive but requires complex curved forming (vacuum forming or steam bending) that may be difficult in a school workshop. [4]
(d) Evaluation and justification [8 marks]
Idea 1 (low rectangular platform) is the best choice. The flat, low profile is the most stable design - an excited dog cannot knock it over. The circular cut-outs lock the bowls in position without needing clips or fasteners, making bowl removal for washing straightforward. The integrated storage box uses finger joint construction, which is a standard school workshop technique using a router table or saw bench with a jig. [2 marks for justified selection]
Idea 2's height makes it unstable around energetic pets. Idea 3 requires forming techniques (curved moulds, vacuum forming) beyond typical school workshop capability and the cylindrical canister is difficult to seal effectively. [up to 6 marks for evaluation against criteria]
(e) Detailed final drawing [12 marks]
Drawn as an exploded isometric view showing all components:
- Platform top panel: 600 mm x 300 mm x 15 mm maple hardwood
- Two circular bowl recesses: 150 mm and 200 mm diameter, cut through the top panel using a jigsaw (pilot hole drilled first, blade threaded through)
- Storage compartment: right third of the unit (200 mm x 300 mm x 120 mm internal volume)
- Compartment walls: 15 mm maple, assembled with finger joints (10 mm wide fingers) at the four corners
- Lid: 6 mm birch plywood, hinged at the back with a 200 mm piano hinge, magnetic catch at the front
- Four rubber feet: 20 mm diameter adhesive-backed pads, screwed to the base corners to prevent the station sliding on a kitchen floor
- Interior of the compartment lined with food-safe polyurethane varnish to prevent moisture absorption
(f) Materials and reasons [4 marks]
- 15 mm maple hardwood for the platform top and compartment walls - maple is extremely hard-wearing, resists scratches from dog bowls and claws, has a light colour that shows dirt for easy cleaning, and is food-safe when sealed with polyurethane varnish. [1+1]
- Stainless steel bowls (bought-in components) - stainless steel is hygienic, rust-proof, dishwasher-safe, and will not chip or crack if the dog bites the rim. Using bought-in bowls avoids the need to manufacture food-contact vessels in the workshop. [1+1]
(g) Manufacturing the platform top [6 marks]
- Mark out a rectangle 600 mm x 300 mm on 15 mm maple using a pencil, steel rule, and try square. [1]
- Cut to size using a tenon saw. For a long straight cut, a circular saw with a guide fence gives a cleaner edge. [1]
- Mark bowl centres using a compass set to 75 mm radius and 100 mm radius respectively. Position the circles so both bowls fit comfortably with at least 50 mm between them and the compartment section. [1]
- Drill pilot holes inside each marked circle using a pillar drill (10 mm bit). Thread a jigsaw or coping saw blade through and cut around the marked circle, staying 2 mm outside the line. [1]
- File and sand the curved edges to the exact line using a half-round file, then sand with 180-grit and 240-grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel for the curves. [1]
- Apply finish - three coats of food-safe polyurethane varnish to all surfaces, sanding lightly with 320-grit between each coat. Allow 24 hours drying between coats. [1]