A household loses time each morning searching for keys, and letters pile up on the hall floor. The narrow hallway has wall space near the front door but no ...

Assessment: Design & Technology (9-1) 0979 | Paper 1 Mock 01 | Product Design Subject: Design & Technology (9-1) - 0979

Question 1 Report

0445-p1-keys-envelopes-hallway-floor

A household loses time each morning searching for keys, and letters pile up on the hall floor. The narrow hallway has wall space near the front door but no shelf or table.

Fig 4 shows house keys and envelopes on a hallway floor.

Design a wall-mounted key and mail holder that stores keys on hooks and collects letters in a tray.

(a) List four additional points about the function of such a wall-mounted key and mail holder that you consider to be important. [4]

(b) Use sketches and notes to show two types of hook or clip that could hold keys securely while allowing quick removal. [4]

(c) Develop and sketch three ideas for the wall-mounted key and mail holder. [12]

(d) Evaluate your ideas and justify why you have chosen one idea to develop more fully. [8]

(e) Draw, using a method of your own choice, a full solution to the problem. Include construction details and major dimensions. [12]

(f) Suggest suitable specific materials for your solution and give reasons for your choice. [4]

(g) Outline a method used to manufacture one part of your solution in the school workshop. [6]

[Total: 50]

Answer Details

(a) Four functional points [4 marks]

  1. Sufficient hooks for the household — The holder must have at least four key hooks so each family member has a designated position. Labelling or colour-coding each hook avoids the daily confusion of sorting through a jumbled pile of keys. [1]
  2. Mail tray depth for standard envelopes — The letter tray must be deep enough to hold A4-sized envelopes (at least 220 mm tall) without them protruding above the edge and falling out. A front wall height of at least 100 mm prevents letters from sliding forward onto the floor. [1]
  3. Accessible mounting height — The unit should be positioned at a height (approximately 1200-1400 mm from the floor) where both adults and older children can reach the hooks and see into the mail tray without stretching. This makes it practical for the whole family. [1]
  4. Sufficient strength — The unit must support the combined weight of multiple key sets (each with fobs and accessories) plus a week's accumulation of post, which can include parcels and catalogues. Wall fixings must be rated for this load, especially on plasterboard walls. [1]

(b) Two hook/clip types [4 marks]

Type 1 — Bent metal rod hooks: A stainless steel rod (3 mm diameter) is bent into an upward-curving J-shape and pressed into a drilled hole in the backboard. A small ball-end is formed at the tip (by brazing or dipping) to prevent key rings from accidentally slipping off when bumped. The J-profile keeps the key ring in the curve of the hook, and the upward angle means gravity holds the ring in place. The stainless steel resists corrosion in a hallway that may be exposed to damp outdoor air. [2]

Type 2 — Recessed magnetic pads: Small neodymium magnets (10 mm diameter, 3 mm thick) are recessed into shallow holes drilled in the face of the backboard, sitting flush with the surface. Key rings are held flat against the board by magnetic attraction, giving a clean, hookless appearance. This is visually minimal but only works with steel or iron key rings; aluminium or brass fobs will not be attracted. The magnets must be strong enough to hold a loaded key ring without sliding down. [2]

(c) Three design ideas [12 marks]

Idea 1 — Horizontal backboard with tray below: A flat rectangular backboard (400 mm x 300 mm) is mounted horizontally on the wall. A row of four brass cup hooks is screwed into a rail near the top of the board. Below the hooks, a shallow open-front tray (400 mm x 100 mm x 80 mm deep) collects letters. The open front makes it easy to see if post has arrived and to grab letters without lifting a flap. The simple rectangular construction uses butt joints and panel pins. [4]

Idea 2 — Tall narrow board with fabric pocket: A tall, narrow board (150 mm x 500 mm) is mounted vertically to save wall width in a narrow hallway. Key hooks are arranged down one side. A fabric pocket, stitched to a small timber frame, is attached to the other side for letters. This vertical layout is space-efficient but the narrow fabric pocket may not hold A4 envelopes well, and larger parcels would not fit. [4]

Idea 3 — House-shaped silhouette with letter slot: The backboard is cut in the outline of a house with a pitched roof section at the top. Hooks hang beneath the roof overhang. A letter slot is cut into the front face, and letters slide in and collect in a hidden compartment behind the board. This design is visually charming but hides the letters from view, making it hard to tell at a glance whether post has arrived, which is a functional drawback. [4]

(d) Evaluation and justification [8 marks]

Idea 1 (Horizontal board + tray) — Strengths: all hooks visible at a glance; open-front tray lets the user see and grab letters instantly; simple box-and-board construction uses basic joints. Weaknesses: protrudes 80 mm from the wall at the tray.

Idea 2 (Tall narrow board) — Strengths: minimal wall width used; fabric pocket is lightweight. Weaknesses: fabric pocket may sag under heavy post; A4 envelopes may not fit a narrow vertical pocket without curling.

Idea 3 (House silhouette) — Strengths: distinctive, attractive shape; letters are enclosed and protected. Weaknesses: hidden compartment means the user cannot see if post has arrived without opening the unit; the letter slot and rear compartment add construction complexity.

Chosen idea: Idea 1. The horizontal layout keeps all hooks visible so each family member can spot their keys immediately, and the open-front tray makes it obvious at a glance whether post has arrived. The simple rectangular construction (butt joints, panel pins, PVA glue) is achievable in a school workshop. [8]

(e) Full solution — construction details [12 marks]

The solution is drawn in third-angle orthographic projection (front view, side section, and plan view).

  • Backboard: 400 mm wide x 300 mm tall x 12 mm thick, made from ash hardwood. Two keyhole slots are routed into the rear face, positioned 80 mm from each side and 50 mm from the top edge.
  • Hook rail: Four brass cup hooks are screwed into the backboard at 80 mm spacing along a line 50 mm below the top edge.
  • Mail tray: Assembled from four pieces of 6 mm birch plywood — one base (380 mm x 70 mm), two sides (70 mm x 80 mm), and one front panel (380 mm x 100 mm). The front is taller than the sides to catch letters. The tray is open at the top and at the back (where it is screwed to the backboard).
  • Tray assembly: PVA glue on all mating edges, held square with a mitre clamp while setting. Corners are reinforced with two 20 mm panel pins per corner.
  • Tray attachment: Two 25 mm countersunk wood screws pass through pilot holes in the back of the tray and into the backboard, positioned at the tray's third-points.

(f) Materials [4 marks]

  1. Ash hardwood (12 mm) for the backboard and hook rail area. Ash is a tough hardwood with an attractive straight grain pattern that gives a quality appearance in a hallway. It takes a clear finish (varnish or oil) well, highlighting the grain. Its toughness means screw holes for the cup hooks will not strip over time, even with daily loading and unloading of key rings. [2]
  2. Birch plywood (6 mm) for the mail tray sides and base. Birch plywood is dimensionally stable, which prevents the tray from warping in a hallway that may experience temperature changes as the front door opens and closes. It is splinter-resistant (important for a frequently handled component) and cuts to size with clean edges using a tenon saw. The 6 mm thickness is strong enough for the tray walls while keeping the unit lightweight on the wall fixings. [2]

(g) Manufacturing the mail tray [6 marks]

  1. Mark out: Mark four panels on 6 mm birch plywood using a pencil, steel rule, and try square — one base (380 mm x 70 mm), two sides (70 mm x 80 mm), and one front (380 mm x 100 mm). [1]
  2. Cut: Cut each panel using a tenon saw and bench hook, keeping to the waste side of the marked line. [1]
  3. Plane edges: Plane each sawn edge square using a block plane on a shooting board, checking with a try square. This ensures the tray assembles square with no gaps at the joints. [1]
  4. Dry assemble: Dry-assemble the four pieces around the base to check fit. Adjust any tight spots with the block plane. [1]
  5. Glue and pin: Apply PVA glue to all mating edges and assemble using a mitre clamp to hold corners square. Reinforce each corner with two 20 mm panel pins driven through pre-drilled pilot holes to prevent splitting. Allow the glue to set for at least one hour. [1]
  6. Finish: Sand all outer surfaces to 240-grit. Drill two pilot holes through the back face of the tray for the fixing screws that will attach it to the backboard. [1]

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