Physical Processes That Shape The Coast
Overview
Stand on a beach and watch the waves. Some surge gently up the sand and leave it behind; others crash down and drag it back to sea. Those two kinds of wave, building and destroying, are the engine of every coastline. Add the energy of storms and the steady sideways nudge of longshore drift, and you have the forces that carve cliffs, build beaches and move sand for miles along the shore.
This lesson explains how the sea does its work. You will learn the difference between constructive and destructive waves, the four processes of coastal erosion, how material is transported and deposited, how wave refraction concentrates energy on headlands, and exactly how longshore drift moves sediment along a coast.
Objectives
- Coastal erosion: hydraulic action, corrosion, corrasion, attrition; transportation; deposition; longshore drift.
- Types of waves: constructive and destructive and wave refraction.
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Lesson Note
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Lesson Evaluation
Congratulations on completing the lesson on Physical Processes That Shape The Coast. Now that youve explored the key concepts and ideas, its time to put your knowledge to the test. This section offers a variety of practice questions designed to reinforce your understanding and help you gauge your grasp of the material.
You will encounter a mix of question types, including multiple-choice questions, short answer questions, and essay questions. Each question is thoughtfully crafted to assess different aspects of your knowledge and critical thinking skills.
Use this evaluation section as an opportunity to reinforce your understanding of the topic and to identify any areas where you may need additional study. Don't be discouraged by any challenges you encounter; instead, view them as opportunities for growth and improvement.
- The distance of open water over which the wind blows is the: A. swash B. fetch C. backwash D. wavelength Answer: B
- Constructive waves are characterised by: A. strong backwash B. high energy C. strong swash and weak backwash D. short wavelength Answer: C
- Erosion by waves compressing air in cracks in a cliff is: A. corrasion B. attrition C. hydraulic action D. corrosion Answer: C
- Longshore drift moves material along a coast because: A. the backwash carries it up the beach B. the swash moves up at an angle and the backwash returns straight down C. tides pull it offshore D. rivers push it along Answer: B
- Wave refraction tends to concentrate erosion on: A. bays B. beaches C. headlands D. spits Answer: C
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