Design & Technology (9-1) 0979 | Paper 1 Mock 01 | Product Design

(a) Four functional points [4 marks]

1. Crush protection — Handmade chocolates are fragile and irregular in shape. The packaging must be rigid enough to prevent external pressure (from stacking, handling during posting, or carrying in a bag) from deforming or cracking the chocolates. A card of at least 300 gsm provides the necessary rigidity. [1]
2. Individual compartments — Each of the six chocolates must have its own compartment or cell to prevent them from touching, rubbing, and damaging each other's decorative surfaces during transport. The compartments also create an attractive, orderly presentation when the box is opened. [1]
3. Freshness and hygiene — The packaging must keep chocolates clean and uncontaminated until the recipient opens the gift. A close-fitting lid prevents dust and airborne particles from reaching the food. Any paper or card in direct contact with the chocolates should be food-grade or lined with food-safe tissue or greaseproof paper to prevent cocoa butter stains on the box. [1]
4. Attractive gift appearance — As a gift product, the packaging must create a positive first impression when received and opened. An attractive exterior finish (printed, textured, or decorated card), a clean opening mechanism, and the reveal of neatly arranged chocolates when the lid lifts all contribute to perceived value. Space for branding, a logo, or a greeting message enhances the gift experience. [1]

(b) Two compartment divider methods [4 marks]

Method 1 — Interlocking cross-dividers with slotted strips: Two sets of card strips are cut: three long strips running in one direction and two shorter strips running perpendicular. Each long strip has two half-depth slots cut upward from its bottom edge; each short strip has three half-depth slots cut downward from its top edge. The strips interlock at right angles, forming a 2 x 3 grid of six equal compartments. This method uses no adhesive (the slots hold the dividers together by friction) and the divider assembly can be lifted out of the box for cleaning or replacement. [2]

Method 2 — Folded zig-zag partition walls: A single long strip of card is scored and folded into a zig-zag (concertina) pattern, creating parallel walls. A second shorter strip is folded similarly and placed at right angles across the first. Together they form a grid of compartments. The folds hold their shape through the stiffness of the card. This method uses a single piece of card with no cutting waste from slots, but the partition walls are slightly less rigid than flat strips and may shift if the box is shaken. [2]

(c) Three design ideas [12 marks]

Idea 1 — Rectangular tray with separate lift-off lid: A shallow rectangular tray (approximately 180 mm x 120 mm x 40 mm deep) holds the six chocolates in interlocking cross-divider compartments. A separate lid of the same footprint lifts off from the top. The lid can be printed with branding on the outer face. A sheet of food-grade tissue paper sits over the chocolates before the lid is placed. This is the classic chocolate box format: simple to manufacture, easy to open, and presents all six chocolates simultaneously when the lid is removed. [4]

Idea 2 — Hinged book-style box with magnetic closure: The box opens like a book, with the base and lid connected by a card spine. A small magnetic catch (two thin magnets glued inside the card) holds the box closed. The inside of the lid is printed with a greeting or product description. When opened, the box lies flat, displaying the chocolates in a row of six compartments formed by glued partition walls. This design is more visually dramatic on opening, but the single-row layout requires a longer, narrower box that may be harder to wrap as a gift. [4]

Idea 3 — Hexagonal box with central rosette divider: A hexagonal box (approximately 150 mm across, 50 mm deep) with a lift-off lid. Inside, six triangular compartments radiate from the centre like slices of a pie, formed by a rosette divider cut from a single piece of card with six V-folds. Each chocolate sits in one triangular cell. The hexagonal shape is visually distinctive and stands out on a shop display, but the triangular compartments suit round chocolates less well than rectangular ones (wasted corner space), and the hexagonal net is harder to mark out and cut accurately. [4]

(d) Evaluation and justification [8 marks]

Idea 1 (Rectangular tray + lid) — Strengths: classic format familiar to customers; rectangular shape is easy to mark out, cut, and fold; interlocking dividers suit any chocolate shape (round, square, domed); all six chocolates visible simultaneously when the lid is lifted; rectangular shape stacks efficiently for storage and shipping. Weaknesses: the separate lid can be lost.

Idea 2 (Book-style box) — Strengths: dramatic opening reveal; lid and base are permanently connected so the lid cannot be lost; magnetic closure feels premium. Weaknesses: the single-row layout makes the box long and narrow; magnetic catches add cost and complexity; the hinge spine must be precisely scored to fold neatly.

Idea 3 (Hexagonal box) — Strengths: distinctive shape; visually appealing. Weaknesses: hexagonal net is harder to mark out; triangular compartments waste space for round chocolates; less efficient stacking for retail display.

Chosen idea: Idea 1. The rectangular tray with lift-off lid is the most practical design for a small business producing handmade chocolates. It is straightforward to manufacture using basic card-working tools, the interlocking dividers suit chocolates of any shape, all six chocolates are presented simultaneously (maximising visual impact), and the rectangular shape stacks efficiently for shipping and retail display. The separate lid provides a clean, satisfying opening moment. [8]

(e) Full solution — construction details [12 marks]

The solution is drawn as the flat net (with fold lines and glue tabs) and an isometric view of the assembled box with the lid removed showing the divider grid.

• Tray (base): Constructed from 300 gsm white coated card. External dimensions: 185 mm x 125 mm x 40 mm deep. The net consists of a rectangular base panel (185 mm x 125 mm) with four side walls extending from each edge (each 40 mm tall), connected by glue tabs at the corners. Fold lines are scored for crisp, clean folds. Corners are assembled by folding the side walls up and gluing the tabs inside the adjacent wall.
• Lid: Same card, slightly larger (190 mm x 130 mm x 20 mm deep) so it fits over the tray with 2.5 mm clearance on each side. The lid sits snugly over the tray walls. The outer surface is printed with the brand logo, product name, and decorative pattern.
• Interlocking dividers: Cut from 300 gsm card. Three long strips (180 mm x 38 mm) with two upward slots each. Two short strips (120 mm x 38 mm) with three downward slots each. All slots are cut to exactly half the strip height (19 mm) so the dividers sit flush when interlocked. The assembled grid creates six compartments of approximately 58 mm x 58 mm each.
• Liners: Six individual squares of food-grade greaseproof paper (55 mm x 55 mm) are placed in each compartment before the chocolates are inserted. The greaseproof paper prevents cocoa butter from staining the card.
• Tissue overlay: A sheet of white food-grade tissue paper (180 mm x 120 mm) is laid over the chocolates before the lid is placed, adding a layer of protection and a reveal moment when the lid is lifted.

(f) Materials [4 marks]

1. 300 gsm white coated card for the outer box and lid. Coated card at 300 gsm is rigid enough to protect the fragile chocolates from crushing during handling and posting. The coated (clay-coated) surface is smooth and accepts high-quality printing (for branding, colour graphics, and product information) without ink bleeding into the fibres. White provides a clean, premium backdrop. The card scores and folds cleanly along marked lines without cracking, which is essential for neat box construction. [2]
2. Food-grade greaseproof paper for the compartment liners. Greaseproof paper has a dense fibre structure that prevents cocoa butter, oils, and moisture from passing through to the card beneath. Without liners, cocoa butter would stain the white card within hours, creating an unattractive greasy appearance. The paper is food-safe (certified for direct food contact), thin enough not to reduce compartment size, and inexpensive. [2]

(g) Manufacturing the outer box shell [6 marks]

1. Draw the net: Draw the net of the box tray on 300 gsm white coated card using a sharp pencil, steel rule, and set square. The net consists of the base rectangle (185 mm x 125 mm), four side wall extensions (40 mm tall), and four corner glue tabs (20 mm x 40 mm). Measure all dimensions carefully from a single datum corner to avoid cumulative errors. [1]
2. Cut out the net: Cut along the outer edges of the net using a craft knife and steel rule on a cutting mat. Use a fresh blade for clean cuts; a blunt blade drags the card and produces ragged edges. Hold the steel rule firmly to prevent the knife from wandering. [1]
3. Score fold lines: Score all fold lines (the boundaries between base, walls, and tabs) using a scoring tool (a blunt point or the back of a craft knife) pressed firmly against a steel rule. Scoring compresses the card fibres along the line, creating a clean, precise fold without cutting through the material. Score on the inside face (the face that will become the interior of the box). [1]
4. Fold: Fold all walls upward along the scored lines, pressing firmly to create sharp creases. Check that the walls stand at 90 degrees to the base. [1]
5. Glue tabs: Apply PVA adhesive (or a glue stick for faster setting) to each corner glue tab. Fold the tabs inward and press them against the inside face of the adjacent wall. Hold each corner under pressure for 10-15 seconds until the adhesive grips. [1]
6. Check and finish: Place the assembled tray on a flat surface and check it sits level with no rocking. Place weights inside (e.g., metal rulers) while the glue sets fully (approximately 15 minutes for PVA). Inspect all edges for clean folds and firm adhesion. Trim any visible glue squeeze-out with a craft knife. [1]

(a) Four additional functional points [4 marks]

The brief specifies a hand-operated shredder using gear-driven rollers for A4 paper. Additional points:

1. Full A4 width acceptance - the feed slot must accept standard A4 paper (210 mm wide) without folding or trimming. The internal cutting width must be at least 215 mm. [1]
2. Sufficiently narrow strips - the cutting mechanism must produce strips approximately 4-6 mm wide, narrow enough to prevent reassembly of the document for confidentiality. [1]
3. Collection bin - a removable bin or bag beneath the cutting rollers catches the shredded paper. It should be easy to remove, empty, and replace. [1]
4. Finger safety - the paper feed slot must prevent fingers from reaching the cutting rollers. A perforated guard plate or narrow slot (5 mm) achieves this while still accepting paper. [1]

(b) Two methods of transmitting rotary motion [4 marks]

1. Direct spur gear mesh (1:1) - two spur gears of equal size (e.g., both 30 teeth) on parallel shafts. Meshing gears rotate in opposite directions, making both rollers pull paper inward simultaneously. The equal ratio means both rollers turn at the same speed for an even feed. Simple and reliable. [2]
2. Compound gear train with idler - the crank drives a small pinion (15 teeth) meshing with a larger idler gear (45 teeth) mounted freely between the roller shafts. The idler meshes with a gear (15 teeth) on the second roller shaft. The idler reverses rotation direction so both rollers pull inward. The compound ratio can be chosen to adjust speed. [2]

(c) Three design ideas [12 marks]

1. Idea 1: Box-shaped shredder - a rectangular housing (240 mm x 150 mm x 100 mm) with two parallel steel rollers. Each roller carries interlocking cutting discs (40 mm diameter, 4 mm wide) at 6 mm intervals. A crank handle turns one shaft; two equal spur gears (30T) mesh the shafts for counter-rotation. A removable HIPS bin clips underneath. [4]
2. Idea 2: Clamp-on desk shredder - a G-clamp attaches a narrow shredding frame (220 mm x 80 mm x 60 mm) to a desk edge. Two grooved aluminium rollers (30 mm diameter) pull paper through, driven by a top-mounted hand crank via a bevel gear pair converting vertical crank motion to horizontal roller rotation. A cloth bag hangs below to collect strips. [4]
3. Idea 3: Tabletop hopper unit - a wide wedge-shaped hopper guides paper into the rollers. A single large gear (60T) on the handle shaft meshes with two smaller gears (20T each) on the roller shafts for counter-rotation. The 3:1 ratio gives fast feed but requires more effort. Cutting discs laser-cut from 2 mm mild steel. Folded aluminium housing. [4]

(d) Evaluation and justification [8 marks]

Idea 1 (box-shaped) is the strongest choice. The direct 1:1 spur gear drive is the simplest and most reliable mechanism, requiring low effort from the user. The box shape is inherently stable on a desk, and the removable vacuum-formed bin is easy to empty cleanly. The interlocking disc arrangement provides effective strip-cutting. The design uses standard sheet materials and commercially available gears, making it realistic for a school workshop. [2 marks for justified selection]

Idea 2's bevel gear pair adds complexity and the cloth bag is messy to empty. Idea 3's 3:1 ratio means the user exerts three times more effort on the handle, making continuous shredding exhausting. [up to 6 marks]

(e) Detailed final drawing [12 marks]

• Housing: 240 mm x 150 mm x 100 mm box from 1.5 mm sheet mild steel, bent and pop-riveted at corners
• Two internal cheek plates: 150 mm x 100 mm x 3 mm mild steel, riveted inside the housing to support roller bearings
• Two roller shafts: 8 mm diameter silver steel, 260 mm long, running through ball-bearing bushes (8 mm bore) pressed into the cheek plates, 40 mm apart centre-to-centre
• Each shaft carries twenty cutting discs: 40 mm outer diameter, 4 mm thick mild steel (laser-cut), separated by 2 mm spacer washers. Discs on one shaft interlock with gaps on the other at 0.5 mm clearance
• Discs and spacers secured by a collar and grub screw at each end
• Paper guide slot: 215 mm x 5 mm in the top plate, directly above the roller nip point
• Finger guard: 1 mm perforated steel sheet, fitted 20 mm above the rollers
• Each shaft carries a 30-tooth spur gear (module 1.5, 45 mm pitch diameter) meshing with the adjacent shaft's gear
• Crank handle: 100 mm long, 6 mm diameter steel rod bent at 90 degrees, with a 25 mm diameter x 40 mm long freely rotating plastic sleeve grip, secured to the front shaft with a grub screw
• Collection bin: 230 mm x 140 mm x 200 mm, vacuum-formed from 1.5 mm HIPS, sliding into guide rails on the housing underside

(f) Materials and reasons [4 marks]

1. 8 mm diameter silver steel for the roller shafts - silver steel is very hard, can be ground to a precise diameter for smooth running in the bearings, and resists wear from paper friction and disc contact over prolonged use. [1+1]
2. 1.5 mm mild steel sheet for the housing - strong enough to support the bearings and rollers rigidly without flexing, easy to bend and pop-rivet in a school workshop, and gives a solid, professional appearance. [1+1]

(g) Manufacturing a cutting disc [6 marks]

1. Mark out a 40 mm diameter circle on 4 mm thick mild steel plate using dividers and a centre punch for the compass point. [1]
2. Drill the centre hole (8 mm) using a pillar drill with an HSS bit. Clamp the plate securely to the drill table and use cutting fluid to prevent overheating and work-hardening. [1]
3. Rough cut the disc using a hacksaw, cutting approximately 2 mm outside the marked circle. [1]
4. Mount on a mandrel (8 mm rod) and secure in a metalwork lathe chuck. Turn the outer edge to 40 mm diameter using a right-hand turning tool. Take light cuts (0.5 mm depth) at approximately 400 rpm with cutting fluid. [1]
5. Face both sides to ensure they are flat and parallel, using the same lathe setup. This is critical for the interlocking arrangement to work without jamming. [1]
6. Remove and deburr all edges using a smooth flat file. Check the diameter with a vernier calliper (should read 40.0 mm +/- 0.1 mm) and the centre bore with a plug gauge. [1]

(a) Four functional points [4 marks]

1. Compact folded size for carrying — The easel must fold small enough for a student to carry in one hand or slung over a shoulder alongside other art supplies. A folded length no greater than 600 mm (the height of a typical school bag) and a collapsed thickness under 50 mm makes it practical for a class of 30 students to transport simultaneously. [1]
2. Board support ledge or lip — An A2 drawing board (420 mm x 594 mm) must rest securely on the easel without sliding off the bottom. A ledge or lip (at least 15 mm deep) at the base of the support area catches the bottom edge of the board and prevents it from sliding down under the weight of paper and drawing pressure. [1]
3. Adjustable angle — Different drawing and painting techniques require different board angles: near-vertical (70-80 degrees) for pencil and charcoal drawing, and more inclined (45-60 degrees) for watercolour work where washes must flow downward in a controlled way. An adjustable prop or telescopic leg that locks at multiple positions provides this flexibility. [1]
4. Stability on uneven ground — School playing fields and outdoor spaces have uneven grass, slopes, and soft ground. The easel legs must spread wide enough to create a stable triangular or rectangular footprint, and the feet should have rubber tips or pointed ends that grip soft ground without sinking excessively. [1]

(b) Two folding mechanisms [4 marks]

Mechanism 1 — Pivot and wing-nut lock: The rear leg is connected to the main frame by a bolt that acts as a pivot point. The leg swings inward to fold flat against the frame. A wing nut on the bolt can be hand-tightened to lock the leg at any angle. The annotated sketch shows the leg in the open (working) position and the folded (carrying) position, with the wing nut accessible for one-handed adjustment. This mechanism is simple, reliable, and uses standard hardware. [2]

Mechanism 2 — Telescopic sliding tube with spring pin: Aluminium tubes of two diameters are nested, with the inner tube sliding inside the outer tube. A spring-loaded pin (a ball detent or a plunger pin) snaps into holes drilled at intervals in the inner tube, locking it at different extended lengths. Pushing the pin releases the lock, and the inner tube slides in to collapse the leg. The annotated sketch shows the extended and collapsed positions and the spring pin detail. This mechanism allows continuous height adjustment. [2]

(c) Three design ideas [12 marks]

Idea 1 — Traditional tripod with telescopic aluminium legs: Three aluminium tube legs (25 mm diameter) are connected at the top by a central bracket. Each leg telescopes to adjust height, locking with spring-loaded pins. A canvas or plywood board support strip is hinged to the front of the bracket, with a lip ledge at the bottom and an adjustable clamp at the top to hold the board. A fabric carrying strap is attached. The tripod base provides good stability on uneven ground, and the three-legged design can be levelled even on slopes. [4]

Idea 2 — Two-legged easel with shoulder strap: Only two legs support the board, with the student's body providing the third support point via a strap over one shoulder. This halves the weight and folded size but relies on the student standing still, making it unsuitable for extended painting sessions and uncomfortable after prolonged use. [4]

Idea 3 — Flat-pack frame with integrated hinges: A single plywood plank unfolds via two piano hinges into an A-frame structure. The board rests against the front panel, which has a routed ledge. When folded, the entire easel is a flat plank approximately 600 mm x 100 mm x 20 mm. This design is very compact but the plywood construction is heavier than aluminium tube, and the fixed hinge angles limit the board angle adjustment. [4]

(d) Evaluation and justification [8 marks]

Idea 1 (Tripod) — Strengths: most stable on uneven ground; telescopic legs allow both height and angle adjustment; lightweight aluminium construction; freestanding so the student can step back to assess work. Weaknesses: three telescopic legs mean more moving parts.

Idea 2 (Two-legged) — Strengths: lightest option; very compact when folded. Weaknesses: relies on the student standing still; not freestanding; uncomfortable strap during long sessions.

Idea 3 (Flat-pack) — Strengths: extremely compact; no loose parts. Weaknesses: heavier than aluminium; limited angle adjustment; plywood exposed to rain may warp over time.

Chosen idea: Idea 1. The tripod design offers the best stability on the uneven ground of a school field, fully adjustable height and angle via telescopic legs, and lightweight aluminium construction. Being freestanding, it allows the student to stand, sit, or step back without the easel moving. The carrying strap and folding design make it practical for a class of students to transport together. [8]

(e) Full solution — construction details [12 marks]

The solution is drawn in isometric projection with a detail of the telescopic joint and a diagram of the folded position.

• Legs: Three 25 mm outer-diameter aluminium tubes, each with a 20 mm inner tube that slides inside. Extended height range: 1000-1500 mm. Each leg locks at four height positions using a spring-loaded ball detent that engages with 5 mm holes drilled in the inner tube at 120 mm intervals.
• Central bracket: A machined aluminium block (50 mm x 50 mm x 30 mm) with three drilled and tapped holes at 120 degrees to receive the top of each leg tube. Each leg is secured with a wing-nut pivot bolt (M6) that allows the leg to swing inward for folding.
• Board support: A 6 mm marine plywood strip (500 mm x 50 mm) is hinged to the front of the central bracket. The strip has a 15 mm lip at the bottom to support the drawing board and a spring clip at the top to hold the board against the strip.
• Leg spread: When fully extended, the three legs spread to a base diameter of approximately 800 mm, giving a stable triangular footprint.
• Feet: Rubber caps with pointed steel tips (removable) for soft ground.
• Carrying strap: 25 mm nylon webbing with a shoulder pad, attached to the central bracket.
• Folded dimensions: Approximately 550 mm long x 80 mm diameter bundle.

(f) Materials [4 marks]

1. Aluminium tube (25 mm diameter, 1.5 mm wall) for the legs. Aluminium is approximately one-third the weight of steel, making the easel light enough for a student to carry comfortably. It does not rust when exposed to rain (aluminium forms a protective oxide layer), and the tube profile provides excellent strength-to-weight ratio. Standard aluminium tube is widely available and can be cut with a hacksaw. [2]
2. Marine plywood (6 mm) for the board support ledge. Marine plywood is bonded with waterproof (WBP) adhesive, so it will not delaminate when used outdoors in damp conditions. It is stiff enough to support an A2 drawing board without flexing, and its smooth surface will not snag paper. It can be easily shaped with a coping saw and sanded smooth. [2]

(g) Manufacturing the board support ledge [6 marks]

1. Mark out: Mark the ledge shape (500 mm x 50 mm, with a 15 mm upstand lip at the front edge) on 6 mm marine plywood using a pencil, steel rule, and try square. [1]
2. Cut main shape: Cut the ledge to length using a tenon saw, keeping to the waste side of the marked line. [1]
3. Cut upstand lip: Cut the upstand lip profile using a coping saw, following the marked outline. The lip prevents the drawing board from sliding off the bottom of the support. [1]
4. Smooth edges: Smooth all cut edges using a file and then glasspaper, working through grades from 80-grit to 180-grit. Round all corners slightly for safety. [1]
5. Drill fixing holes: Drill two 6 mm clearance holes for the bolts that will attach the ledge to the central bracket, using a pillar drill with a 6 mm twist bit. [1]
6. Apply finish: Apply two coats of exterior-grade polyurethane varnish to seal the wood against moisture. Allow the first coat to dry fully before applying the second. The varnish creates a hard, waterproof surface that protects the plywood from rain and dew during outdoor lessons. [1]